Fine fare in Fife
It might be world-famous for golf but St Andrews has a lot more to offer than whacking a ball across its links, as Susy Macaulay discovers on a weekend of sheer indulgence
IT WAS as if we had strayed into a Mediterranean town. Sunlight dappled the pavement cafes, and a warm breeze caressed the ancient, unspoilt buildings.
Knots of people wandered around in shirt sleeves, enjoying an ice cream or sitting under trees.
Even the graffiti was a cut above the average. Throughout the town, someone had chalked “I love you” and the object of their attentions had replied in smaller writing “I love you too.”
Written out in full mind you, and spelled correctly, as befits a seat of learning such as St Andrews.
Our destination for the night was at the west end of South Street, a part of the town hallowed by centuries of history and embellished by the only fortified gateway to survive in Scotland.
Built in 1589, the West Port arch marks the entry to the old burgh of St Andrews and offers an impressive backdrop to the newly renovated West Port Bar and Kitchen.
In previous incarnations, the West Port was the Britannia Hotel, and then a restaurant. It was taken over by Maclays two years ago, and given a stylish makeover which would not make it out of place somewhere like Barcelona.
The new look West Port has managed to achieve that most difficult of combinations – clean, minimalist lines with a welcoming warmth.
The tone is relaxed and sophisticated, making it one of the few places in St Andrews to attract that elusive mix of town and gown.
It also hides the town’s best kept secret – four luxurious en-suite bedrooms at £59 per room – which makes a weekend break irresistible.
The West Port’s emphasis is on good food and conviviality. The bar/dining area is thoughtfully zoned to meet the different needs of its clientele: at the bar, sloppy sofas grouped round tables, while downstairs a cosy den invites groups of mates to relax.
Upstairs, there’s dining space for 60, including a row of four-seater tables with individual TVs popular with breakfasters.
Wood, leather and autumnal colours infuse every zone with warmth.
And on the best weekend of the summer, when we happened to be there, the beer garden was another attractive option for sipping one of the bar’s elegant selection of cocktails under a shady parasol.
The four bedrooms, two twins, one double and one single continue the minimalist theme, with crisp white cotton bed linen and splashes of red in the soft furnishings.
The double room has a big bathroom – I approve – and another small but important touch, a flat screen, wall-mounted TV was straight on to the bed.
No neck cricking required. I approve again.
Not that much TV watching was in order. There was shopping to do. St Andrews boasts a high proportion of luscious independent shops on its two main streets, South Street and Market Street and also on Church Street and Bell Street, which run between them.
From boutiques to bookshops, delis, ice cream shops, golf shops and gift shops, it is a joy to browse in so many family-run businesses.
You’ll see the Fairtrade logo much in evidence. St Andrews was awarded Fairtrade status in 2005 thanks to the 100 organisations which now use, sell and serve fairly traded products. So your indulgent shopping can also be good for your conscience.
Unless you are determined to play golf (and enough said about that – I’m afraid I am of the good walk wasted school) you’ll find plenty to detain you within easy reach of the West Port until it’s time for dinner.
Eateries abound of course in St Andrews, but home sweet home, we decided to eat where we were to lay our heads that night.
The West Port Bar and Kitchen prides itself on good home-cooking at affordable prices.
Head chef Karen Munro came from the West Port’s sister establishment, the ever-popular Victoria Cafe, and decided to major on fresh seasonal produce.
She has devised a menu with plenty of variety and flexibility to accommodate diners from noon until 9pm.
Express lunches of soup and a baguette are available between noon and 5pm, and there’s a wide range of dishes from salads and soups to samosas which come in both starter and main course portions.
I started with vine tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad, while Himself chose a starter of stir-fried beef with peppers in a spicy sauce.
I moved on to steak and vegetable chunky pie with hand-cut chips and plenty of veg. Himself went for pan-seared salmon steak, which had him wreathed in contentment.
We chose a Moondah Brook cabernet shiraz, so deeply flavoured and smooth we could have happily thrown ourselves into a vat of it.
Delicious desserts followed, with old favourites such as hot chocolate fudge cake, apple and almond pie and sticky toffee pudding making it hard to choose.
In the end we opted for cheesecake and ice cream – Himself in raptures as ice cream plays an important part in his happyometer.
By this time the bar was buzzing, with a mix of people from cool teenagers to young professionals and academics.
Assistant manager Nicky Irvine said the bar had been designed by its customers, for its customers.
“We invited them for taster sessions to find out exactly what they wanted,” he explained. “We have high customer loyalty, and want to do everything we can to make them feel this is a home from home.”
Nicky added that with the growing trend for people to breakfast out, the breakfast market is something the West Port is looking to build up. For me, this is where it gathers most brownie points.
Not a big fan of the classic cooked breakfast I have looked, mainly in vain, for something different and more to my taste in the many hotels I’ve stayed in over the years.
I’d travel a long way for a West Port breakfast. How about grilled pink grapefruit with sugar and cinnamon, or a virgin mary (bloody, but without the vodka) followed by smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel, or smoked haddock, poached egg and parsley butter?
And if you are either really hungry or really adventurous, how about lambs livers, bacon, onions and tomato?
The old favourites are still there, of course – the full cooked breakfast or eggs on toast – but bacon ciabatta is a nice twist and croissants and bagels are a welcome alternative to toast.
All rooms at the West Port bar and Kitchen are £59. A generous three-course breakfast costs £10. Lunch and dinner prices are the same, with a three-course dinner for two coming in at about £34 plus drinks.
